Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Clsatt, Apr 19, 2013.
will you be having any problems with the tuning peg placement on the closest of the two holes?
The tuners (Gotoh GB-707s) fit with about 1/4" of space between the bushings and 1/8" of space between the tuner bodies on the back.
Strung this up the other day to make sure it's all good. Need to do a slight level of the frets, wire it, and paint the headstock. Not sure if I'm going to match the headstock to the body or go black. Part of me wants to match it. I'll be super glad to get this outta my sight and to its owner!
That top and the way it is carved does remind me of a VIK.
Keep the pics coming bro! Oh, btw ... why don't you do build threads?
dude any of my builds reminding someone of a VIK is a HUGE compliment.
oh and i completely forgot that i'd started one about 6-7 pages back. i'll revive that one.
Y'all posting pics with guitars on concrete really makes me nervous.
Guess Sully put something between guitar and concrete
Yep. There's no way in hell that I'd put a clearcoated guitar flat on concrete. I use these underneath, which helps keep the angled headstock off of the concrete as well.
I've used pot holders before, works pretty well.
Sprayed some vinyl sealer on this today. Tomorrow it gets fretted. I also did the same on an RG7321 neck I reprofiled and swapped to a maple fretboard. It will get fretted tomorrow as well.
This started out as an RG7321 neck (holes redrilled for a 7421/7621 body), and now has a birdseye maple fretboard, a dual action truss rod, will have Dunlop 6105 sized frets, and has been recarved to be like an old square heel UV.
Made a quick paper template for this today. It's interesting how many lines match up or are very close to a Strat, just by chance. This whole body was drawn freehand originally.
damn those iwasaki rasps used in conjunction with the microplanes really made quick work of this.
since it was a flat top I first considered just doing that blackmachine chamfer but its so overdone and just lacks the class that I once though it had. Then i saw Knarbens sweeping bevel and wanted to do the same. Mines not quite as full but i think its just what i need.
Ah, yeah ... that looks familiar Thanks for letting my work be your inspiration!
Your bevel seems to have about the same width at the widest area.
no thank YOU. i love trying new things out and this looks much classier than just the simple chamfer, which i still DO like. I still need to make the profile of the sweep carve a bit smoother. it gets kinda wonky at the bottom. i need to round the remaining straight corners as well. body is thin enough so i wont really have to do a tummy contour but I might just for looks.
Worked on this today... Started by taping around where the frets will go. On 10-24 I œnly did the even frets at first, so I didn't have to bother tearing tape. Once I got the frets pressed in I removed the tape and did the odd frets. All this is to keep the superglue off the finish, and it does a bangup job at that. I clean each fret with acetone during the process.
Didn't have time to finish the fret job, but I will tomorrow.
I am always blown away by the talent here, can't wait to make some sawdust of my own pretty soon.
I was in the middle of making a new nut for a different guitar, when this showed up.
Another Squire Mini Player, or at least that's what it was when it showed up in one piece. I was so pleased with the way the last one turned out, I decided to give it to my nephew. I didn't think I would, but I found one for myself. Unfortunately, this one is not as in good as condition as the last, but hey, at least it has the battery cover . I guess they didn't have a soldering iron, but had a hot glue gun and some alligator clips. Maybe it's best they didn't have an iron.
The pot that has the clips on it is an on/off volume pot? When turned all the way down to where it clicks, it's off. Turn it on and it's volume. Thinking of replacing it, but having a hard time figuring out what to get. It's not like a PRS or varitone pot. Anyone got any ideas?
Do you know what K-ohm value the pot is?
You could do a push/pull pot... Push it, it's off, pull it, it's on... Just got to match the total resistance of the pot to the new pot...
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