What's going on in rockdog's shop

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by rockdog, Jun 1, 2013.

  1. Brian I

    Brian I New Member

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    Stunning work, rockdog. Everything including your routing is ridiculously clean.
     
  2. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    Thanks guys!

    Good idea Benjy, thanks. Think I'll give it a try, I hope my local hardware store has it in stock.

    Ok, before I start with the top carve I did a quick layout today, set the knob/switch positions (one knob will be replaced with the switch), wow, they are close to the hole and the edge...:hmm:

    [​IMG]

    And Blackdog: if you plan to build a hollow body, go with the inside carve, it's really not that hard to do it.
    That's the final result:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Blackdog

    Blackdog Member

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    Hi Rockdog,

    That inside top carve looks so good it's a pity it will end up hidden !

    I think I will do it just like you did when the time comes.
    It's clear that carving the inside is more work than carving the outside... I would only carve the inside of the back if it is a separate piece from the rims.

    Back in 2011 I was rescuing a destroyed Gibson ES-335 of which only the neck and hardware were salvaged. I eventually built a full blown ES-335, but at the time I also considered going the 336 route.

    When dimensioning the rim thickness I realised that the bridge tone control is positioned too close to the edge and that it it was potentially conflicting with the rims.

    I don't know what's the thickness of your rims, but just in case, these are the designs I drew back then. Notice that there is a notch in the rim where said tone control goes.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Rob.Mcdougall

    Rob.Mcdougall New Member

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    Nice progress!
     
  5. aeleus

    aeleus Active Member

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    Blackdog - thanks for sharing those plans. I have a 336 on my short list of builds to do.

    Quick question: what are the two diagrams on the right side of your drawing? Are they alternative routes?
     
  6. Blackdog

    Blackdog Member

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    Hi aeleus,
    Yes, two alternative chambering schemes.
    I had no clue how the "real" CS-336 chambering was implemented, so I designed two options: one more "hollow" with just a solid block under the bridge/TP and another more 335 style, with a block running from the neck to the tailpiece.

    Like I said, in the end I didn't build it, but soon I will do a hollow version of my doublecut design and for that I will use the the first approach (block under the bridge only).
     
  7. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    Hey guys, :wave:
    it's been quite a while, but I'm still alive and back with a quick update:

    The top carve is roughly done, requires a bit more sanding to get rid of some tearout, but I hope to finish it on the weekend so I can start with the f-holes...

    [​IMG]
     
  8. pulaifax

    pulaifax Member

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    happy to see you here rockdog after that challenge fiasco, you won by a thousand miles

    I love your builds
     
  9. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    Thanks man!
    What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger, right? :thumb:

    Guess I'm in the perfect mood to go on with this project now and the top is getting better and better the more I work on it.
    When I started with the top carve it was so uneven like an offroad track, but I'm really satisfied with the result so far.
    Only a little bit more fine tuning maybe...
     
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  10. jcsimons

    jcsimons New Member

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    its looking great - how thick is that top going to be?
     
  11. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    I was curious by myself about the final thickness of the top, and after cutting the first f-hole I can say that the top has an even thickness of 4mm (about 5/32") all around :fingersx:
    I've cut them with my Dremel, did the rest with sandpapers.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll also install a thin layer of white binding later.
     
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  12. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    So, binding around the f-holes is done, and I've already cut the top to the final shape. It starts to look like a guitar. Things are going slow these days...

    [​IMG]
     
  13. jcsimons

    jcsimons New Member

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    Hey Rockdog - are you going to be able to get electronics through that elegant f-hole?

    Nice job on that binding!!
     
  14. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    No, the pots doesn't fit through the sound holes, these are too narrow, I'll load the electronics through the bridge pickup cavity.
    Last weekend I've already soldered the wiring harness together, and before I glue the top onto the body I'll check if it fits and if I can install it without any issues.
    How dumb is it to build a guitar without a backplate? I really don't know why I do it... :lol:
     
  15. jcsimons

    jcsimons New Member

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    I've replace the electronics in my Hamer 335-like guitar twice - each time I was really glad I got it all back together - seemed like a minor miracle each time (all through the f-hole). I LOVE backplates
     
  16. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    Drilled the holes for the pots and the switch into the top, it took a few days until I was really sure in which position I should install the switch, and I decided to use the first layout I made for it, switch right under the bridge (or close to it).

    [​IMG]

    Need to made a few alterations on the body so that the pot near the edge fits (thanks to Blackdog for this hint :wave:)

    [​IMG]

    and no wire visible through the f-hole :)) I'm still working on the bridge PU cavity to install this damn bulky wiring stuff :hmm:

    [​IMG]


    And finally the neck blank arrived :))))
    It was a tough decision what kind of wood I should use for this neck, mahogany or maple or whatever, and I decided to try my luck with a maple neck. I like it a lot on my other guitars and I hope it's the right decision in combination with the other specs for this one. Quartersawn with a touch of flame

    [​IMG]

    Problem: my finished fretboard has white binding already installed... guess I need to make another one :hmm:
     
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  17. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Nice blank! This is how I order my blanks, too ... can't whait for mine to arrive.
    White binding on a maple neck ain't too much of a problem in my eyes though!
     
  18. rockdog

    rockdog New Member

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    Nah, I don't like it much with the light colored maple and white binding, not enough contrast between these two.
    I'll safe the fretboard for a future build and make a new one, natural black sides and maybe only a thin white strip inlaid along the edge :hmm:

    I've put the body away for now and started with some parts for the pickups this weekend, I'll try to make a nice matching set, we'll see :cool:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Blackdog

    Blackdog Member

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    Great looking blank for the neck !

    Regarding the fretboard, can't you just re-bind it ?

    It would look great with real ebony binding and a thin maple purfling, kinda like this (but in black, of course):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Blackdog

    Blackdog Member

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    After reading pulaifax's comment about a "challenge fiasco" I looked up what I thought he was referring to…

    What a shame what happened there !!! :nono:
    Anyway, congratulations on an absolutely amazing Tele build ! You would have definitely gotten my vote.

    I thought about participating sometime, I don't think I will now.

    And had a second revelation when I saw your video !! I hope I haven't written anything inappropriate to you in the past… Please, accept my apologies if it ever happened.

    Cheers from neighbour Niederlande.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2013

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