Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Renkenstein, Feb 10, 2014.
That looks like a damn good idear.
Forgot... I also use electrical tape wrapped tight along neck to address creep and to make sure board stays centered on neck. Couple of really tight wraps at start and finish tightly wrapped spiral along length. Kinda like wrapping a bat except with gaps. Also let Titebond set a little its not quite as slick.
Does that work well? I thought a staple under the FB would be the best way to address creep. If I've got anything, it's a million rolls of electrical tape laying around(I bought a multi-pack at Harbor Freight a few years ago...it never ends!)
When I glue a fingerboard/fretboard down, I slide the board back and forth against the neck slab before I apply pressure. This has reduced the tendency to creep quite a bit. I think it may be the shearing action that causes the viscosity to increase, making it thicker and tackier. Then I clamp the shit out of it...
...with clamping blocks all up and down the neck. On a bass, of course, it takes a lot more work. I tend to focus clamps on the edges more than the center, but I plane it so that the center is marginally higher (~.25mm), so that clamping the edges automatically expresses a lot of pressure on the center.
Since I started doing this, I have not had any gaps. Prior to that, I had gaps maybe every other time.
I use toothpicks to register my fretboards... Clamp the board down dry, drill a small hole in the first and 20th fret, insert toothpick into hole, sand it down to a 1/16" nub, glue fretboard on properly registered, no creep. Can also use a nail or metal rod, just got to make sure it's not sticking up high enough to interfere with fretting.
Yep, toothpicks work great. I also use 1/16" brass drill rod. You can get it at hobby shops. And, I always keep a package of those bamboo kabab skewers around, they are about 1/8", great for all kinds of stuff.
I made pins from staples.
This fretboard was already fretted so I couldn't drill through the fret slots, but I might use Adam's method in the future.
(And of course my work is so sloppy that I'll destroy the fret slots as I drill through )
Let me throw in another way. Just for inspiration. Tryed the index method ... not a fan of it. This works quite good for me: Clamp (taped shown in pic/clamping is better) two small guides at either the front and end of the board and remove them once all fretboard gluing clamps are in place and the glue has started to set.
This is exactly how I plan on doing my next one.
Thank you all very much for the recommendations. I'll be tackling this task before long. Gotta get the nerve up to apply heat to the FB. MEHHHHH.
Since I have a laminated neck, should I be worried about the heat destabilizing the neck itself?
No, I've not had an issue like that.
Once again, thank you Adam!
I've had great success with the indexing method. It's simple and very effective.
I use two brads - one at each end. I pull them out once the glue sets. You can do this before or after you radius or trim/bind the board. You have to do it before you put on the frets though.
Here are some pics of the process:
Ahh that's a better idea than leaving a nub in there. Nice!
Man, that's the last time I do anything without asking y'all first. So many good idears, and all I would have had to do was ask to save myself hours and hours of labor.
What's that smell?!?! Oh, that's Renk's progress getting stale and moldy. Let's put up a tiny update.
Routed for binding. I didn't do the vintage route in the cutaway. No need to complicate things unnecessarily, since this isn't a vintage spec build.
Here's how I did it. I had some scrap oak plywood that I threw together and made a little makeshift binding router setup. I used a 1/2" Whiteside flush trim bit and put a 3/8" bearing on it. Worked quite well. I had to give the body a boost with a piece of 3/4" MDF because I made the box a little too high for the bit to reach the workpiece.
Not so much. I'll post an update with the errors. As I'm working on my own design, I keep weighing my options...repair/rebuild.
This gap here almost made me abort yet another neck. After the ridiculous amount of time I have invested, I decided to go ahead and fill the gap and proceed. It's my first build, and I've learned from my mistake and will be adjusting the process in the future. Here I've stuffed the gap with some mahogany sawdust and wicked in some CA glue.
After sanding the fretboard radius and then sanding again to get the inlay level, I was getting some high and low spots. As you can imagine, it frustrated me to no end. After thinking about how this happened, I realized sanding back and forth was hitting the middle of the fretboard twice, while the ends were only getting half the action. I changed to sanding one direction, lift, repeat. This ensures the whole FB is sanded evenly. Why didn't I think of that earlier?
After sanding the FB to 220. I also drilled the tuner holes and test fit some Grover tuners I had laying around from when I installed Sperzels on my Schecter. All I need to do is find a TOM to match that strange gray color. That may be a challenge.
Mockup with the body.
Final sanded the fretboard and started pressing in the frets. It's not pictured, but I also chamfered the fret slots with a triangle file, so if a refret is ever required, tear-out will be kept to a minimum. My dumb ass didn't realize that 2 pieces of fretwire isn't enough to do a whole neck, so I'll have to order some more of the StewMac wide-highest fretwire.
Looking good! I still really dig those inlays
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