Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Knarbens, Oct 24, 2014.
Thanks for your input!
That's what I did
Slow progress on my projects. This weekend I finally came back to this build and drilled all the single saddle holes. As you can I see I made a template, aligned it and drilled through the template holes. Came out as good as I hoped. I'm working towards putting the strings on now to see how I really did and whether it intonates right.
Will I be able to use a standard 7 string set (say Daddario EXL110-7 10-59) on this guitar? The scale is 25" - 27".
I would think it unlikely. D'Addario's idea of long scale or extra long scale is pretty laughable (especially on bass). I would look at Kalium's 7-string sets. I built a 27.5" scale 7-string some years ago, and I believe I uses DR Tite-Fit strings. They worked well as I recall.
Should be able to. I'm not sure if that will have optimal tension, but they should physically work
Hehe Or in other words my question should be:
Would a standard set work well or is it better to buy individual strings?
Try a standard set first, figure out how they feel, then worry about buying custom strings so you know what to expect.
So I shaped the headstock and roughed in the tuner bevel in order to put strings on this guy. As I said earlier in this thread I wanted to make sure everything works out right before going into detail and doing all the cosmetic work.
The bridge position is right, but I could have placed the actual saddle closer to the bridge pickup to end up with more room for intonation finetuning. It works but I'd like to have 1-2 mm more play on the low B string. Also I need to recess the bridges. Not sure how much yet. Maybe 1,5 mm. Inlay placement, string alignment and everything is fine.
One question though: Saddle is moved all the way back. If the low B string still is slightly sharp when played at the 12th fret - would I need thicker or thinner strings to have better intonation. I guess thinner?
It looks amazing Knarbens! Can't answer you question though.. I would think the thinner string would be right though. I based my guess on the fact that a bass (that have thicker strings) have a longer scale length? Not a very scientific answer But wouldn't It make the whole build more complete if you moved the tuner, so that you would not have to use a specific string thickness ?
Thanks Marcus! Well, I thought about that. But I don't know how I could fill the holes properly. Another option would be to grind the saddle a bit.
I like the bevel by the tuners. Was wondering what you would do there.
Is the action as low as you want it? That can affect intonation as well. Thinner string would get you closer though.
No. The action isn't as low as I want it. Let's see.
Still thinking about the neck profile on this.
All sort of trapezoid necks are patented, mmh?
If this is for personal use I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's going to be used to push the business forward then it becomes an issue. The Strandberg Endureneck can be licensed though, and it's not super expensive to do, so maybe you can get a license for that and try it out?
Wait, companies are that worried about folks using even the same neck shape!? Wow...
The strandberg endurneck for instance isn't just a neckprofile. It's Olas invention and he is offering ways other builders can still use it.
i gotta say i really dont care for the endurneck, its all personal preference i know but i actually got to try on at NAMM and felt that it felt just clumsy at times. the idea of flat surfaces to relax wrist strain doesnt seem like a new idea, reminds me of why some pencils are hexagonal. Anyways i'd make a mockup out of MDF or somethign before actually carving, you might find you dont really care for it either. Or you might love it
I haven't tried one, but I'm with you on that otherwise, I've never felt that neck carve made much sense.
I guess I'm with you guys! It's just an option I wanted to take into account. Having played my guitar with the square neck I found it quite cool to have a surface to rest your thumb on.
Anyway: The endurneck is more for shredders, not chord players like me IMO. The most comfortable 7 neckprofile I played has been an LTD and it was a very thin D without any flatter spot in the center. That's how I do my 6 string necks as well and I might just scale my 6 cross section up to a 7.
the more i build the more i've reverted to an almost shoulderless thick neck. somethign that occupies more of the negative space between the thenar and hypothanar eminences of your palm (the cushy pads below your thumb and opposite the diagonal creases below your fingers).
The straight trapezoid neck however also is very comfortable, its Ola's shifting middle flat area that makes me puzzled, it might follow some peoples thumbs but not mine apparently lol
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