Knarbens' 7-string, headless, multiscale build

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Knarbens, Oct 24, 2014.

  1. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    Buy 100 clamps. Use them all. That's what I do :lol:
     
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  2. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Haha, yeah ... seen that ;) I always wonder how you tighten the clamps with all the handles that close to each other.
     
  3. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Just glued the same board to the same neck ... looking forward to unclamp it tomorrow to see how I really did ... think it was better than the last time.
     
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  4. KnightroExpress

    KnightroExpress Active Member

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    Here's hoping it turns out!
     
  5. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    So here's the success of tomorrow forenoon :)

    First I sanded the neck surface. Looks like new.

    [​IMG]


    Then I sanded the bottom of the fretboard. Both surfaces came out really good! I'd say almost better than when I was gluing them for the first time.

    [​IMG]


    Then I inserted the trussrod (with silicone padding this time) which had I really nice fit and clamped the board. I placed the clamps in turns: 2 1 2 1 2 ... to make sure there's tension on the outer sides and in the middle. Next time I'll go with two full rows of clamps though as it ain't optimal this way.

    [​IMG]


    And here's the glue joint after I removed the clamps and sanded some of the glue squeeze-out.

    [​IMG]


    Thank you all for your encouragement! I NEVER thought I was able to remove the board without any problems and one week from now I NEVER thought I'd re-glue the same two components again ... thought I had to start all over. The freboard surface ain't perfectly flat after all this work, but since I wanted to radius everything over again anyway I might be ok.

    So, lesson learnt, gained experience, fixed a flaw and I can go on know. I'm really thankful!!! :) Thank you too boys!
     
  6. immortalx

    immortalx New Member

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    I'm glad you saved it man! :yesway:
     
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  7. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    woooo! if this were an RPG you'd have just leveled up! new skill acquired!
     
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  8. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    All three components (body, neck, fretboard) are finally together :) Still a long road ahead though ... here's the slightest hint of a mockup.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see the pencil lines where the bevels will be.
     
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  9. Heretic

    Heretic Well-Known Member

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    I also like your cavity. Also the rest of the guitar is cool too.
     
  10. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    Kickass, man! Congrats!!!
     
  11. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks :) 40,5 hours for now ...
     
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  12. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Recreated the fretboard radius this forenoon with 100 grit paper and sanded through the inlays. I installed the inlays deeper than the fretboard surface on purpose to avoid that, but still 4 of the 10 inlays where down. Redrilled, replaced and reglued them ...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I test fitted the electronics and my selfmade jack plate. All good! The cavity cover leaves like 2 mm space to the push/push poti.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Jay Jillard

    Jay Jillard New Member

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    i usually jsut rough in the radius, then inlay, then finish sand the radius.


    i've sanded through too many inlays... =P
     
  14. HurrDurr

    HurrDurr New Member

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    Woah, this build is awesome. I too have learned a thing or two from you wonderful folks on here.
     
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  15. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that sounds right ;) Or the inlays have to be deeper. MOP is so thin most of the times ... the ebony inlays in my #3 has been 3 mm deep.
     
  16. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Boys you gotta help me with two questions:

    1. How clean has the tang been cut off? I have a Sintoms tang nipper that leaves me with a slight humb where the tang was. Will I have to grind it down or will it press in?

    2. I'm afraid of loose fret ends. Do you glue them down to your binding?
     
  17. immortalx

    immortalx New Member

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    Whenever I used binding on a fretboard I cut and filed every fret. You can use a dremel but I find hand filing is more accurate and safe (fretwire gets freaking hot with the speed of a dremel!)
    I use CA on the fret ends but I haven't found a way to NOT make a mess :D I have to use a razor blade to scrape between the frets afterwards!
     
  18. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Fretted and first bevel roughed in ...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    1: typically if the tang isnt clean i try again and usually it takes off enough material undernearth where grinding isnt necessary. even if theres a slight nib it'll push in fine

    2. i put a VERY light dab of CA on the fret ends that sit ontop. Have a rag nearby to clean the CA while its still flowing. its a bitch to remove cleanly after. esp with binding cause you cant use acetone. If its unbound then use wipe with a little acetone to remove the excess.
     
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  20. Ronsonic

    Ronsonic New Member

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    If you start cutting the longer frets first you've got a fall-back plan if you end up with one too short. I'll touch up a poorly cut fret end with a file.

    Don't glue to the binding, it's not very strong, glue into the wood. CA is a good glue to use, it can be undone with heat (which a lot of techs and Luthiers use automatically when pulling frets) or a drop of acetone if there's no binding.
     

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