Knarbens' 7-string, headless, multiscale build

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Knarbens, Oct 24, 2014.

  1. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    I checked the depth before I glued the board on and it was right. Hard to tell now whether there's a problem ... I'm afraid to damage the neck in case I'd remove the board?

    Mmh, maybe that's a solution. Does the glue become really soft again? Would that change anything in view of final hardness/stability?
     
  2. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    I doubt you'll be able to get the gap to go away with heat, but u know that you can remove the fretboard with heat. Remove the board, place it under something heavy for a while to flatten it again (it will curl up) or clamp it between two flat boards. You can sand the two glue surfaces flat again and try again without remaking anything.
     
  3. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    oh i had this same problem!!


    just heat the board with an iron and slip a blade to loosen it. take it off, clear off all the gunk and check the depth of the truss rod. sometimes the silicone slips under the ends and pushes it up a little then when clamping occurs it'll leave a gap.

    if the truss rod pokes out a little just route a super shallow channel on the underside of the fretboard and then reclamp with pressure on the center first then the sides. It works well and my walnut guitar travels with my buddy ryan around the world in different climates and has yet to show any problems!
     
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  4. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys! So I think I might give it a try to remove the board ... it's funny how that small of a slit makes me loose my mind.
     
  5. immortalx

    immortalx New Member

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    If you decide to do it, turn the trussrod counter-clockwise to introduce an up-bow. Start heating the area under the first couple of frets and it will soon curl-up and separate in that spot. Then, as Purelojik said, slip a blade there to help the rest of the board separate easier.
    It's just a little trick to avoid marring the neck when you try to insert the blade.
     
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  6. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    For a guitar builder, that kind of thing is the Mariana trench.
     
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  7. poro78

    poro78 Well-Known Member

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    If a neanderthal douchebag like me can remove a fretboard without destroying a neck, I bet you can easily do it too. :yesway:
    (Btw, Oil paint palette knives were excellent for this task.)

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    EXPERIENCE!!! You can fix it. It's worth fixing. Everything is still square. Best case scenario, right here bud.
     
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  9. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot guys!

    So, how long does it take to melt the glue? Will I just have to lay a cloth between iron and board? Anything else I should know?

    Cool if I could still use the neck, but best case for me would be to use the fretboard as well ...
     
  10. poro78

    poro78 Well-Known Member

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    Well, the fretboard I removed was to be scrapped, so I didn't protect it at all.
    Just couple minutes of ironing, working the blade in, some more ironing, moving the blade further, ironing, rinse and repeat until removed. ;)
    The whole process took about an hour, but I don't know if that's the normal pace or am I just slow. But I guess rushing is bad in this particular task, just take it easy and slide the blade little by little.

    Other two tips I got from somewhere were to start from the nut end of the fretboard and not to lift the fretboard while sliding the blade under it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2014
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  11. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    i used foil everywhere. i'd just steam and heat and try to slowly wedge the knife. its better if you just sit and have a cup of coffee to relax yourself. just clean the surfaces afterwards and let everything settle for a bit. sand and scrape and make sure everythings ok then get gluing again.


    Here's my post from earlier in the year with the walnut guitar. hope this helps

    my buddy ryan's been on tour with it and has recorded stuff too. he absolutely loves his guitar and has no complaints! im very happy it all worked out too. its all a learning process
     
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  12. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Look what I just did :) Went like a charm! Really not a problem. Looks like I can use the neck for sure ... fretboard doesn't look bad either ... hope to beeing able to re-use it as well.

    Thank you all!!! Special thanks for Alex for the foil trick!

    EDIT: You can really see how there hasn't been enough glue on the outer edges.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Another positive report – completed the Ovangkol control plate and recess. The first attempt ended with a router accident as soon as the wood touched the bit for the first time ... grain orientation I guess. Today all was good :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. poro78

    poro78 Well-Known Member

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    Yay! Like I told you - if removing a fretboard was easy enough for me not to mess everything up, it has to be really easy for you. :D
     
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  15. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Oh come on poro ... don't talk yourself down. I really admire your patience and your hand planing skills!
     
  16. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    Poro...quit pickin on my buddy Poro!

    Glad you found success there, Knarbz! I love that control cavity shape, btw.
     
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  17. Paulsar

    Paulsar New Member

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    I agree! Stylizing the utilitarian stuff = :bowdown: in a utilitarian world.
     
  18. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! To me a control cavity has to fit into a design. I always base the shape and size on the control element locations I use in the particular build and to me a control cavity has to follow the outer contour of the body (and/or bevels in this case).
     
  19. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Currently I'm thinking about a way to glue the board without ending up with the same problem ...
     
  20. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    make spool clamps for the outsides?
     

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