Knarbens' 7-string build

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Knarbens, Aug 23, 2013.

  1. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    To compensate the lack of a matching headstock (that I like so much) I stained the backside of the headstock.

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    First layer of Tru-Oil on the neck ...

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    Seven coats of TO (I believe) on the body now. It's really hard to end up with a clean coat ... also I'm afraid to level through the coats on the top ... for now the top ain't as smooth as I'd want it to be.

    [​IMG]

    Original I thought I'd leave this guitar natural so black hardware would have been my choice ... decided to buy another chrome bridge so it matches the tuners, controls and the blue better.

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. KnightroExpress

    KnightroExpress Active Member

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    I think the chrome complements your top color very well.
     
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  3. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    i really want this guitar
     
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  4. skeels

    skeels New Member

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    Nice lines. Like the blue too!

    What brand of bridge you using?
     
  5. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    It's a Göldo HW27 bridge. It has 62 mm stringspacing from H to e.
     
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  6. Metal Snake

    Metal Snake New Member

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    I thought 7-strings were tuned to B, not H. :D
     
  7. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Of course, for you. In Germany it's EADGHE instead of EADGBE :agreed:
    Sorry If I forgot that! ;)
     
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  8. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Aaah, I'm tired of Tru-Oil :/ I can't manage to put on a coat that's not streaky.
    The amount of TO on the towel doesn't have any effect.

    Is there a way to thin down TO so it's not that sticky?
    Can imagine that it flows on better that way.
     
  9. Heretic

    Heretic Well-Known Member

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    The aerosol can variety works well. Just remember to take that nozzle off and clean it thoroughly after use.
     
  10. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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  11. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    This is so frustrating :( Feels like the first 5 coats or so have been a lot easier?

    Just applied a coat and took it ALMOST off again because it looked like s***

    I wouldn't have gone with that much coats if I hadn't colored the top ...
     
  12. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    Here's an excerpt from that thread that may help you out, bud.

    "Spraying the last coat or two is a great way to finish it off. Birchwood Casey sells it in a spray can, though it can be a little hard to find in stores but is readily available from their web site.
    You can shoot it out of a gun or I'm sure one of those Prevail units would work too.

    As per my correspondence with Birchwood Casey, you can thin it with mineral spirits up to 1 part thinner to 2 parts TO, though for my setup through a small detail gun, a 3 or 4 to 1 mix works fine. Definitely do some testing with your rig and see what works best for you. The goal is to have it thin enough to get good atomization and flow out, but not so thin that it wants to run too easily.

    If you level as you go while building up the film / base, then there is less risk polishing through and getting witness lines on the final buff.
    For final buffing on this latest project I tried some Meguiars Ultimate Polish and was very happy with the result."


    And Bruce Bennett wrote this about it:
    "I have a method that was taught ot me by Michael Tobias, its roughly a 5 day process

    once the guitar is well sanded to at least 180 grit ( 220 is better)
    Start with a "soak coat" first
    Use a small rag to wipe on liberal amounts of oil and keep the surface wet for 10-15 minutes. Wipe off excess and let dry for as long as you want. but not less than 24 hours. this coat is very important as it seals the wood and the deeper the oil goes the better your protection against moisture later. pay attention to end grains as they soak up more oil.

    2. Starting with 400 grit sandpaper. dip the sandpaper in a small amount of oil and sand in circular motions in a small area. the oil will begin to make a paste from the sanding dust, that you will want to push into the grain as much as possible. once the oil/dust paste starts to get stiff-ish, wipe off excess paste going across the wood grain. let dry another 24 hours. woods like ash ( or other wide grain woods) may require a sanding block to keep the wood surfaces flat. Clsoe grains like mahogany and Maples usually don't need a block.

    3. Repeat step 2 useing 600 grit.

    4. Repeat with 1200 grit

    5. Take a 400 count cotton sheet and cut into a 12" square. roll into a very tight, smooth surfaced, ball.
    use the ball as you did the sandpapers.. dip into the oil and "polish" the wood surface.
    when the oil gets warm and stiff-ish,
    wipe off VERY vigoursly WITH the grain, with a clean 400 count sheet ( balled up) damped with a VERY small amount of orange or lemon oil.
    Buff and polish during and after this wipe off step and you should have a very nice glossy French polished finish. be careful of fingerprints.. as the oil drys, it will keep imprints in its surface.
    I recommend you wear one cotton glove on one hand to hold the guitar with while you buff. watch for hard items on your worksurface. I fact I recommend that you use something soft to do this whole process on.

    let dry another 24 and your done.

    I prefer General Finishes Seal-a-cell and when I go to the 1200 grit paper i switch to Amour Seal also made by G.F.


    This type of finish is not for the nambie pambie.. It require tons of elbow grease. Do it wrong and it looks like crap. do it right and it looks like a million bucks. if your arm is not hurting halfway through step 2... your doing it wrong."
     
  13. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    DUDE knarbens, try this:

    first wipe the entire surface down with mineral spirits and then wipe your tru oil over that. it'll flow better and you can do some minor touch ups, but LEAVE it be. dont go back. then after its all dry lightly, basically kiss the surface with 600 grit sandpaper and do it again. it'll build up the coats and you wont sand through.

    japan drier also speeds up the cure time btw.
     
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  14. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man! Maybe I'll give this a try.

    Not sure though? – Thought mineral spirits dissolve oil?
    What do you mean by "LEAVE it be"?
     
  15. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    mineral spirits thin the oil. so you'll eventually have to put more coats on but they will all go on smoothly.

    by leave it be, i mean just that, dont touch it after you wipe it on the whole body. some people see some dust and go abck and try to grab it but DONT. itll get sanded out later. Tru oil sets up really fast depending on what your enviroment is like, mine is becomes tacky very soon so i need the mineral spirits to keep it wet and smooth so i can glide my saturated paper towel gliding across the guitar body.

    the reason you need to use a very high grit sandpaper is because this oil doesnt burn in like lacquer, and you'll want to smooth the surface without going through the layer into the next, thats where you get a halo or ring. everyone tells me they are easy to fix but hoenstly after all i've tried, they just arent. the more you wipe or whatever the worse it'll get so its better to avoid them entirely.

    so yea, be patient and if you need further help i'll dig up the tips and tricks i wrote about on my blog.

    if you can thin it out and spray it, you'll get the best results, especially for the final super thin glaze coats. i cant get the spray version because im in california where the VOC laws have changed.
     
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  16. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    Very useful info, Purelojik.

    I'm curious, have any of you used a Tru-Oil finish on a guitar with binding? Would anything be different when finishing? Binding usually gets a clear coat over it, so I'm wondering if having exposed binding on an oiled guitar would cause problems.

    I'm planning on using Tru-Oil on my LP, but I haven't seen much info on how well it works with binding.
     
  17. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the input Purelojik!

    Well, I see a lot of Blackwater, Blackmachine, Skervesen, Whatever, ... guitars with binding and a natural looking finish. Of course I can't tell whether it's TO, any other oil or a satin lacquer though.
     
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  18. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    Thanks bud. I did a bit more Googling and found it's compatible with binding, but may discolor, which would require scraping.

    I just wasn't sure how much binding relies on a clear coat to adhere to the guitar or if it was all done by either goop or CA glue. It makes sense now that a clear coat wouldn't be necessary over binding anyway.
     
  19. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Can't believe I'm writing this without posting pics as I always wan't to see them in other threads. Well, I'm busy ;) ...

    Leveled and just recrowned the frets. Turned out quite nice. Might be my best job so far.

    Thanks goes out to Sully for his cool video with the "business card/sandpaper trick".
    Nice videos, good knowledge, awesome entertaining!
     
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  20. Knarbens

    Knarbens Well-Known Member

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    Neck is done. Need to drill for the logo plate ("trc") but that's no drastic act.

    Also I posted a teaser mockup ... let's claim two weeks for this to be done.

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