Finally gonna do one of these...

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by rainH2O, Mar 29, 2015.

  1. rainH2O

    rainH2O New Member

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    Way too humid to spray lacquer today. I need to figure out a plan to do my headstock decals. I know they need to be embedded in the clear, and I plan to do a flow coat of lacquer over them. Do I do this after I've wet-sanded the orange peel on the headstock? I'm guessing after the lacquer sets up for a few weeks, I wet-sand, apply the decal, then spray a flow coat on the headstock? Am I risking creating more orange peel with a flow coat and possibly having to wet-sand again (putting the decal at risk)? Does the decal need to go on earlier? How much orange peel would it eliminate by doing a flow coat over the entire guitar before wet-sanding?
     
  2. rainH2O

    rainH2O New Member

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    Wet sanded and buffed the top. Still need to wet sand and buff the rest. Put some of the hardware on to see how it's going to look.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. rainH2O

    rainH2O New Member

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    Thought the 7-string looked a little plain with just the lemon, so I sprayed a burst on it. In better light, it looks like an iced tea burstt. I took the remnants of my lemon yellow lacquer and added a lot of vintage maple and three drops of red. Kept to the edge a lot better than the six string.

    [​IMG]

    The burst looks thicker on the control knob side, but that's just lighting and differences in the wood. The burst is consistent all the way around. The very bottom of the guitar is a good representation of the burst thickness.

    Brought it inside for a quick pic, then back to the garage.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2015
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  4. rainH2O

    rainH2O New Member

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    Okay, had to work through some finishing issues this weekend. I scraped the binding, and got a little over the line and into the top on the inside of the horn. I attempted to do a little touch-up, which made it worse. I attempted to repair the touch-up, which made the bad spot worse and bigger. After a few more tries, the horn was an ugly, blotchy mess.

    One thing saved me from having to strip the top and start over. Since I decided to burst this one after shooting about six coats of clear, I was able to completely scrub the burst color from just the horn, while leaving the underlying yellow base coat completely intact.

    I had used up all of the burst color doing the botched repair attempts, so then I had to mix more and match the color. For the first batch, I used the leftover lemon yellow from the base color. I added a dash of dark vintage maple and three drops of red. The dark vintage maple was going to be my variable in trying to match. I mixed a new batch of lemon yellow, added a dash of dark vintage maple and three drops of red. I sprayed it on a scrap from the top where I had tested the original yellow. Too dark. I poured half of the mix into another jar and topped off with more clear lacquer in order to dilute the dark mix. Now I'm having to guess a little. I added some more lemon yellow, to adjust for the new lacquer being completely untinted. I also added two more drops of red to allow for any loss of red when pouring away half the mix. Tested again. Perfect this time. Re-sprayed the horn.

    If the color isn't perfect when it dries, I will do one pass on the opposite side with the new mix over the top of the old. That should even things out, but I hope that won't be necessary.

    I bad lighting, it looks a little like a cherry burst. In good light, it looks iced tea.

    [​IMG]

    As a bonus, I have a really nice tobacco colored mix from the half that I poured into a second bottle.
     
  5. SimonB15

    SimonB15 Active Member

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    I missed this question earlier, sorry. You'll want to block sand out the orange peel before applying the decal, then bury the decal in clear, thick enough to block out and wet sand without sanding in to the decal itself. I put the decal on after only a couple of coats of clear, as long as I think it's thick enough to block sand down flat in the decal area.

    Looking really good, BTW :yesway:
     
  6. rainH2O

    rainH2O New Member

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    Wet sanded and hand buffed. Will do a better job buffing later. Test fit hardware. Broke a CTS pot trying to push the knob on. The center of the shaft pushed right out of the threaded portion.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. michael2522

    michael2522 New Member

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    I did my first fret board inlay. The inlay spans across precut frets...my question is What is the best way to re-cut the frets that have the inlay spanning acros them? Fret saw or table saw?
     

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