Howdy all , new to the club and luthiering in general. I started out on a little tenor grizzly kit Uke to test my resolve. I have trolled here and other forums a lot, but ignored the whole grain filler thing, thinking: 'how much can it take to fill the grain in a little ole Ukulele?' Well, i heard that Valspar laquer worked pretty good, so a few cans and alot of coats and sanding later (should have used the grain filler...) i have finally managed to fill the grain and was seeing the end in sight. I just sprayed a nice heavy beautiful slick coat, was excited about how it looked, but went out to the garage 30 minutes later and it has blushed pretty extensively. Will i need to sand all of that off? or will it just need to be knocked down and resprayed. I'm not depressed, but pretty close to it....
If it was your last coat just let it cure a month or two (preferably 2 with rattle can), then wet sand and buff it. The blush will go away.
That's what Amazon is for. This stuff is great, when I steam off a dovetail you always get blushing around the fingerboard extension on the top. Couple light coats of this and it will disappear right before your very eyes. I've also combated blushing from spraying Nitro in high humidity (although I would not recommend this technique) Also, my son left a sopping wet washcloth on one of our best antique tables. It had white blush on it for close to a year, this stuff pulled it right out.
Funny thing... i went out later and almost all of the blush had disappeared. Needless to say- in Houston it stays pretty humid. Seeing how it was a little cool out, I had warmed the can in a pan of hot water (from the sink..so not too hot... ) I think that may have had something to do with it. I put a coat on this morning and it appeared to stay nice and clear.
on another note. I was an auto painter for years.. does anyone use polyurethane clears on their instruments? Catalized (2k) clear for autos is super tough, dries hard, takes a sand/buff really well.
I know of several builders that use 2k. I'm actually leaning that way myself, since I've got some car painting experience as well.
I recently ran into the same thing. I live in the Calif. high desert, and it's usually good to go weather-wise all year round. Well, we had a really wet winter, complicated with a cold snap. I sprayed a neck and it blushed around the edges immediately. I managed to correct the trouble with a couple of shots of pure lacquer thinner, and that did the trick. -But I went ahead and bought some blush eraser (retarder) from Stew Mac. Reckon it's the same stuff as the Mohawk product. About nine bucks. It did the trick marvelously. I sprayed again, and again ran into blushing issues. The blush eraser sprayed on easy, just a touch was all it took, and the problem disappeared. Gotta use it quickly though. Don't give the lacquer a chance to dry. When you get blushing, spray the retarder/eraser immediately. But not much. A little "dusting" of it is all you need.
Yep, you got it! Thinner will work as well, the aerosol products are just a little more user friendly. What you're doing is melting the lacquer with a solvent, this allows the trapped water vapor (blush) to evaporate out. Nitro is great regarding this ability to melt/dissolve and start the curing process over again. All you need is time.
Yes, lots of us use BC/CC or just CC on wood. Works beautifully. If you're familiar and comfortable with that system, absolutely go for it. You know all the necessary precautions, of course.
I know this is an old thread, but i have a instant cure for blush. here in TN. its super humid, i found this by accedent. i spreyed the laquar it turned to milk. i carried the guitar out in the sun to get a better look at it, as i was looking i notist the clouds disolve and clear rite up. it only takes about 30 seconds. now i routeenly take em out in the sun and it clears rite up. some how the sun reacts with the lacquar , but the whole guitar seems to brighten up. but i left one out for 10 min. and it had big ugly blisters on it. had to strip the whole thing.
