What's on your workbench?

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by Clsatt, Apr 19, 2013.

  1. BWGuitars

    BWGuitars New Member

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    Thanks! :)

    Timbers: ash top with a sandblasted finish over an alder body (natural finish), pale moon ebony fingerboard and a Honduras rosewood neck.
     
  2. jcsimons

    jcsimons New Member

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    I just went back to look at it again - that is one spectacular guitar - how the hell did you get those colors on the top (sandblasted?)

    whats that ebony like to work with?
     
  3. BWGuitars

    BWGuitars New Member

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    Sandblast the grain back on the ash, paint the whole thing and then pack the sandblasted grain with a colored filler. PME is not all that different than regular ebony. It's hard, tough on tools, and prone to splitting/chipping if you're not cautious.
     
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  4. SimonB15

    SimonB15 Active Member

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    Hi guys, new member here. Just stumbled across your little piece of the 'net and wanted to say it's all very impressive. I'm a new builder, only completed 1 kit and 1 scratch build to date, but have caught the bug!

    I started a couple of things this weekend; 2 electric ukes (Tasmanian Oak bodies, maple necks) - 1 roughly LP shaped the other roughly tele shaped - and glued up a body blank also of Tassie Oak. No idea what I'll do with the body blank yet.

    So far when routing I've found the Tassie Oak to be... volatile.. :p had a bit of tearout that I'm still mulling how to fix. No matter, though, it's all experience!

    Thanks again for the pics and info you guys are sharing, it's making my own journey a lot easier! Cheers

    Edit: Oh yeah, also made a jig for sanding scarf joints, because I want to try some!
     

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  5. Blue Belly Guitars

    Blue Belly Guitars New Member

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    La Strega is coming along. Been pretty busy with firewood the last couple weeks but, I have been managing to push this one along pretty well.
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  6. Clsatt

    Clsatt New Member

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    Simon, to save some time on your scarf joint jig, make a second sliding plate that you can mount your router in to true up that face before taking paper to it.
     
  7. SimonB15

    SimonB15 Active Member

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    I'm a little nervous about routing the initial plane, tbh. I'm still not brilliant with the router. I was thinking of borrowing my dad's drop saw to make the initial cut, then tidying it up with the sanding jig. Although I don't suppose a second sliding plate for the router would be terribly difficult.... a recess for the base plate, maybe a makeshift clamp thing to hold it in, and enough surface area to move laterally as far as necessary to clean up the whole face....

    Cheers.
     
  8. jcsimons

    jcsimons New Member

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    Hey Blue Belly - is that guitar top white? I can see the back and neck are a pretty spectacular curly something (maple?). I don't know, you may need some better pictures for that one - it looks pretty cool from what I can see.
     
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  9. Deej

    Deej New Member

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    Holy crap! :shock: That's my favourite one of yours so far I think.
     
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  10. Blue Belly Guitars

    Blue Belly Guitars New Member

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    It isn't painted yet. Better pics to come....
     
  11. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    If you have to do this again try butyl acetate to retard/melt it instead of lacquer thinner. Should do the trick. Wick it in there and then after waiting a while you can spray or drop fill more clear on top.
     
  12. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    One of the guitars on my bench today.
     
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  13. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    My lacquer sprays for the day
     
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  14. Purelojik

    Purelojik New Member

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    finished test samples. Im going rustic on this maple burl singlecut. gonna just do oil and wax. the damage over the years is gonna give this baby character..

    heres the samples. teak Oil and wax on right. and Master gell on left. I think im gonna go with danish oil so i can use Japan drier to make the process speed up more. TEak oil from what i gather is tung based so i'd need to purchase a cobalt drier for that.
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    and heres the fretboards

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    and heres the rough cut bodies. Im having 3/4 in birch templates made at the moment. Acrylic was gonna eat my wallet...

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  15. Blue Belly Guitars

    Blue Belly Guitars New Member

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    Just finished up scraping the binding this morn...

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  16. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    Buffed this out:

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  17. Sully

    Sully Well-Known Member

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    In the name of making significant progress on some stuff, I spent Saturday with these. Wetsanded and buffed the plum crazy one, and shot a new video with a friend/builder on Sunday, and came back to the white one. I tried using micromesh which went well, but I didn't go all the way up to 12000 on the face of the body; I think I stopped at 4000 and went to compounds. But for the sides, I figured I'd go all the way up to 12000 and I'd be surprised if there was a difference between the shine on the side and on the face. Neat stuff. Also primed the headstock for the purple one. Whee!

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    Sully
     
  18. SimonB15

    SimonB15 Active Member

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    Interesting you should say that, because I've just picked up some micromesh to use when wet sanding an axe I'm spraying at the moment. Have you now buffed out the face/sides of that body? And would you say the difference is negligible?
     
  19. Sully

    Sully Well-Known Member

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    Haven't touched it since Saturday. The face was sanded with the MM up to....4000? And then buffed out with compounds, while the sides were just MM all the way up to 12000. I just shot these for ya. Looks the same to me; if I didn't know, I wouldn't know, ya know? Tell me if you see a difference. :)

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    Sully
     
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  20. Adam

    Adam Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a lot of work :lol:
     

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