NGD - My First Martin

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by jkes01, Jan 15, 2014.

  1. jkes01

    jkes01 Active Member

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    As much as I hate dealing with Craigslist, most the time not such a good experience, but sometime you just get lucky.

    Saw a post this morning for a barely used 2012 Martin 000-15M almost 1/2 of the retail price, so I sent a text and he agreed to hold it for me. I waited in anticipation all day. I think it has been the longest day of the year. Finally time comes to check it out. I loved it, not a mark on it, plus I was able to get him down $50 more dollars, only if I gave it a good home and took really good care of it :)

    I have been wanting one of these for quite some time. All the reviews I read give it really high marks. Some say these are the best valued solid wood Martin ever made.

    Solid Mahogany top back and sides. Rosewood fret board and bridge, bone nut and saddle, Ebony bridge pins, inlaid rosette, etc.

    [​IMG]

    Plus it came in the original Martin case with case candy, a few dozen pics, capo, tuner, and 12 sets of strings.

    It still has the original set of strings on it when he got it. I will throw on a set of the Darco strings to set it up and play for a while. Then I will address the tarnished frets, condition the fret board, bridge, make any necessary adjustments and put on a new set of Elixir polywebs.

    Happy early birthday to me :D

    -John
     
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  2. Duplex Dave

    Duplex Dave Active Member

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    Nice! Looks like the FB and bridge are starving for some nourishment like you mentioned.
     
  3. jkes01

    jkes01 Active Member

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    Thanks Dave. It does seem quite dry. SM fretboard finishing oil should take care of it. I am hoping it darken it just a little as some of these guitars have really light colored rosewood. Although, this one is not quite as light colored as some I have seen.

    I might try lemoil first and get that soak in, then use the finishing oil to seal and protect it. Any thoughts?

    Oh and this thing sounds really good, quite loud for a small bodied guitar.

    -John
     
  4. Duplex Dave

    Duplex Dave Active Member

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    I've been using boiled linseed oil for almost 20 years. I've tried many other products but always go back to the linseed. It darkens nicely. Once or twice a year seems plenty. The only thing that even comes close IMO is Howard's Feed and Wax, but I always go back to the old standard....
     
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  5. Luthier-Atlanta

    Luthier-Atlanta New Member

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    Very nice score!
     
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  6. jkes01

    jkes01 Active Member

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    I just learned that the fretboard and bridge are not rosewood as in indian, but rather morado also known as Paul ferro or Bolivian rosewood. It looks cool and has some nice grain.

    When I get some time, hopefully this weekend, I'll do a setup and fine tune the nut. It has sharp edges and the slots are a little deeper than I like. The bone will polish up really nice.

    I do have another question. The ebony end pin was in a package in the case. I guess they don't install these at the factory. Does it get glued in, or just press fit?

    Thanks again Dave. From what I understand, the sm oil is basically linseed with dryers that keep it from getting sticky. I was just wondering if I should use both types of oil or just go with the finishing oil alone. Both of which I already have on hand.

    Thank you sir!


    -John
     
  7. otterhound

    otterhound New Member

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    Wonderful find .
    15 series Martins are so underrated .
    You may want to try a set of Bluegrass strings with that one .
    Light upper strings and medium/heavy lower strings .
    Enjoy . :yesway:
     
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  8. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein Well-Known Member

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    I hate KC Craigslist, but it really looks like it treats you well! Congrats on the score.
     
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  9. jkes01

    jkes01 Active Member

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    Thanks Renken! This is my third guitar from craigslist, but have tried to acquire many :shock:. I did get lucky with this one. Wife says this is the last one for a while, I am running out of room for all these :D.

    -John
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  10. Duplex Dave

    Duplex Dave Active Member

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    If the end pin fits nice and snug, just a thin layer of Titebond 'should' hold it in great. Especially if you have to lightly tap it in.
    If not you might have to shim it with a thin piece of paper with glue on both sides.
    If it's too tight you need to carefully ream out the hole with a tapered reamer (preferably) for a nice snug fit.
    I have not had the linseed get sticky, not sure where that came from but it seems like common internet info. Wipe on, let sit for about a minute wipe off thoroughly.

    Boiled linseed oil is actually one of if not the very first catalyzed wood finishes. By itself it is very sticky and takes forever to dry. But when boiled oxygen molecules attach to the oil molecules and it becomes a 2 part finish. The oxygen oxidizes very quickly and dries the oil when applied in thin layers.
    You can buy linseed oil that was only heat treated and not boiled, this would probably be like putting syrup on your fingerboard....

    Saturated linseed oil rags will spontaneously combust, take precations! Fireproof can or dunked in water, or both. I use paper towels and spread them out flat or hang them to dry....
     
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  11. jkes01

    jkes01 Active Member

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    Dave, again thank you for all your input. The pin is a little snug, so yeah I'll have to ream the hole a bit. I got the cheap reamer from Harbor Freight. It's pretty sharp so it'll work just fine.

    Incidentally for you banjo guys out there, I was looking at the SM catalog and they have a shortened reamer for 5th string banjo pegs. I swear theirs looks exactly like the HF one, but with the end hacked off. Oh yeah, theirs is 8x the price. :cool:

    Yeah, I read that too about linseed oil being sticky and bought into the SM sales pitch on their product. I have used just straight oils in the past and the SM oil is way better than the others I have used.

    I really appreciate the P.S.A. on the proper care and disposal of oil soaked rags. I don't think it can ever be mentioned enough. Everyone using these types of finishes from novice to expert should know and follow these rules. It is worth mentioning every time :thumb:

    I do exactly what you mentioned. Scott towels for stain, tung oil, poly and fretboard oil get laid out to dry before proper disposal.

    -John
     
  12. otterhound

    otterhound New Member

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    I believe that Martin endpieces are 5 degree and bridge pins are 3 degree reams .
     
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