guitar refinish - amber - what dye/stain should I buy?

Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by mistermikev, Nov 15, 2015.

  1. mistermikev

    mistermikev Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    13
    well, not stain... as I understand stain seals. I am probably looking for water based dye.

    just looking for general input/experiences with various products.

    I've recently traded for a carruthers tele and the orig nitro had something red that had leeched into the finish. tried a few things but couldn't get it out.
    I have since stripped it down.

    I think I want to do some sort of an amber burst but more on the tobacco side of things. my plan is to apply a tobacco brown, sand back, then diluted tobacco, sand back less, then amber. but what amber? getting that old time amber is what I want.

    I've used the stew mac red and it works great. I believe that is just re-branded transtint? I know it's good quality, but am unsure of the color based on the pics.

    other options I've seen: general finish (amazon/woodcraft)
    colortone? these are diluted already so... I don't know
    crimsonguitars?

    what is your experience with amber, what do you suggest? sources?

    thanks in advance for advice.
     
  2. B. Howard

    B. Howard New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2015
    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Hummelstown, Pa
    I use Behlens Solar-lux as my go to stain & dye.

    Most burst are not done with stain on bare wood as you describe but rather with shading lacquers over a sealer. It gives a better look with more clarity and gives the opportunity to easily strip off if the burst goes bad.

    You also always start with the light colors and work to the darker ones. If I was to stain a burst it would be the amber background first and then rub in the brown around the edge.
     
  3. mistermikev

    mistermikev Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    13
    solar lux... excellent call. forgot about them. did an oak futon in blood red using that... still a beauty. will look for a source on that.

    afa burst, yeah, no pot/compressor/spray-gun and more importantly don't have the nec skills for that. I want to do a very small rim in tobacco... I don't know how folks do those with spray... even with a mask-board.

    I've done a burst by hand before. 'poor mans burst'. def not the same but then at some point in the past - all finishes where hand rubbed. def have seen some nice ones.

    amber background first - I'd like to bring out the grain more in this wood so my plan was to sand back but leave tobacco in the grain, and leave it almost untouched at the edges. the only way I can figure to get a nice transistion. I've seen some guys using something (i don't know what) to smooth that transition with a rub... if anyone knows - please chime in.
    perhaps with that info in mind I could sand back all over, then amber, then tobacco edge.

    anywhos, thanks for your response. Some good advice there.
     
  4. B. Howard

    B. Howard New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2015
    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Hummelstown, Pa
    Solar-lux can be diluted and blended with DA or they have a solvent blend they sell for the purpose.

    I have seen some nice rubbed bursts as well though typically the dark edge ones on mandolins.
     
  5. edadmartin

    edadmartin New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2014
    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    8
    Location:
    colorado
    Behlen solarlux lemon yellow red and brown make up the colors needed for a nice vintage amber without being to orange.
     
  6. mistermikev

    mistermikev Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    13
    b.howard, edadmartin... thanks for the responses. I see we have a couple fans of solar lux.

    Howard you kind of influenced me a bit on the spray idea. I went and did a little research and saw some guy doing a trace onto construction paper, then cutting a bit thinner, then pushing thumb tacks into it all over the place... laying it on top and getting a very nice dust just at the edges out of a can. Still not sure I have the confidence that that won't end in a re-sand... but I'm thinking about it and potentially some reranch as I understand they make a fine spray out of a can.

    edadmartin... I think you are on to something with the mixing. I'm not sure any brand is going to have exactly what I want - and even if they did will it look like what I want on this wood. can't be too orange, can't be too lemon.

    anywho, sanded till I couldn't sand no mo tonight then sprayed her off, whiped it down with some acetone to dry it out just a bit before I start. man did the grain come out. currathers uses some really nice wood but the old finish just was covering it up too much. Hope I can keep it looking this nice once I get some finish on!

    cheers,
     
  7. mistermikev

    mistermikev Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    13
    hello again.
    so... ended up getting transtint amber. mostly because it's water based and I had red mahogany on hand, so new they would work well together.
    my first try looked nice, but didn't match the neck well.
    take two turned out better... but couldn't get the grain to show it's beauty.
    added some true oil... I swear the grain was all washed out before and you could only really see it center bottom. now it's visible everywhere.
    this is the second finish I've used true oil on and I don't care what anyone says: I'm a believer.
    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice