Discussion in 'Guitar Building' started by emoney, Jul 31, 2013.
really nice job on the burst man! this guitar is going to be a head-turner
Nice work! That's inspiring. I've been thinking about getting a sprayer. Can you share the details on your setup?
@aeleus - Sure, mine's pretty simple actually. I use a small, pancake compressor (yes, the type everyone says DO NOT USE, lol) and an airbrush that I picked up from Harbor freight. I run a main line from the compressor to a water filter/pressure gauge and run the setup at about 32-35lbs of pressure the airbrush itself and spray away. For this build I used Watco nitro that I mixed a smidge thinner than 50/50 (Thinner to Lacquer) and used Mixol tints added to the lacquer for the colors. I started by adding a few drops of yellow and 1 drop of orange to get the base color, then used the excess of this and added more orange and a tiny drop of brown, sprayed that coat, then more brown with a drop of black to get the outside ring's color.
Since I was staying in the Iced Tea/Tobacco burst realm, it allowed me to mix up the base coat in a larger container and just use that, adding color as I proceeded, all the way to the finish. Plus, I only had to use one Mason jar to mix the color this way. However, for the clear coats, I got chicken and sprayed it out of a can using Acrylic Lacquer, just because IMHO it's much easier to spray, cheaper, and has a smoother finish coat. This might be a good time to mention that you can, in fact, spray acrylic lacquer on top of nitro, however I don't think you can do it the other way around. I've got some nitro ageing, and I really wanted to add a last "amber clear coat" to the whole thing, but I'm worried now that there might be a bad ineraction so I'm leaving well enough alone.
Ok then, got home Friday night and this weekend I've wet sanded it flat and put on a final coat. I started with 400 grit, then 600 - 800 -1200 and called it done at 1500, all wet, shot a final top coat and now it's dry.....well, to the touch anyway.
It's the first time I've used acrylic lacquer, but man it won't be the last. I get why Fender uses this now. While it's a very thin coat (not even one whole rattle can), it looks deep and thick. I'll know more when it gasses off, but if feels durable too. And, it's much easier to lay down than nitro. I'm not sure it will need much of a buffing when it's ready, but I'll know more then.
It doesn't smell as pretty as nitro, but it does smell so I'll gauge it's completion by nose and get back to you then.
you put rattle can acrylic clear over timbermate?Howd that work out?
On top of the timbermate is actually nitro, Lexicon. The color coats are Watco that I thinned 50/50 with lacquer thinner. The acrylic is the clear coats and there was no negative interaction between those two. I've heard that you can't do it backwards, meaning putting nitro on top of acrylic. But, this way is just fine. I used a rattle can because I didn't think my airbrush would handle the clear coats and make it smooth anyway. Although on the next build, I may actually try it and see what happens. I'm thinking about doing a 339 after this one and before an acoustic build. All I need is some maple, so I'll let you know.
Wow! Great looking build so far! Well done!
i use acrylic rattle cans for clear coats too.. i think is the best option if you dont have experience, a lot of patience and a good spray gun..
it is cheap, cristal clear, very hard, dries super fast, it doesnt decay like nitro, and melts between coats so its easy to repair..
i tried poly rattle cans, total fiasco!
Great looking burst. That finish is incredible!
So, a little something got done;
I noticed that one of my tuners is stripped out, won't tighten there at the "shaft" part thingy, so I get to order new ones. Oh well. Didn't take any pics because it was a "spur of the moment" type thing. I went the old, sharpie marker on each fret and sand with the flat stick (in my case a 20" long piece of corian I got from a cabinet place for free) and then followed up with the radius block using 400 grit, then 600 grit to clean them up. With the right stuff, leveling frets takes no time at all and the sharpie route is the only way to go, in my opinion, humble or not.
I did get 2 coats of oil on the fretboard;
Still need to recrown and polish the frets and then finish the oiling, general prettying up of the FB. I can still smell the lacquer, and won't do any polishing/buffing on the the body until that smell is gone.
And then he found he just how wrong he was...again. So, while the acrylic laid nicely on top of the nitro, with no bubbles or other ill effects, what it hasn't done is come even close to "drying" yet. After 3 weeks, a person can leave a lot of forensic evidence anywhere on the guitar by touching it...i.e. fingerprints, et al. That's left me with the albeit stubborn conclusion that you can not, in fact, spray acrylic on top of nitro. What's a guy to do, you ask? Sand it off and start over;
Had to reshoot the burst since I had a couple issues I wasn't happy with, figured I might as well go full monty on the re-do. Went a little darker in the burst rim, just for personal taste.
It's dry, smooth, and shiny and you don't leaves fingerprints and smudges all over it when you pick it up, so I started assembly;
I went with smaller paddles on different tuners this time in the mock-up because I think it looks a lot better.
I still need to make a real nut, but I'm low on bone and need to go by the buthcher's shop. I also haven't set the bridge screws yet because I want to be able to tune it after it's wired up to confirm my placement for intonation. Hopefully, this is the "final assembly"'
Here she sits next to her big sister that got this whole fascination started;
Little does she know that there will be a complete head-to-head competitioni upcoming and the winner goes (or stays) into main rotation and the other becomes a stand queen. Hey, what can I say....life is tough sometimes.
Looking good. What's that under the bridge?
great work emoney, I love the burst and the passion
Btw, is it my eye, or you either placed the bridge pickup closer to the body center, or the tailpiece+bridge further away (different scale length? or do I need glasses?!)
Good eye, Barry, but what you're seeing there is the bridge pickup is pushed a little closer to the neck than normal. I purposely did that in the hopes of taking just a smidge of the "edge" off as this guitar will be used 99.99% of the time to drive the rhythm in my Praise Band. On my 1st one, the neck p'up is too "woodsy", so the switch stays in the middle position, but I have to roll off the tone one the bridge p'up and I thought I'd experiment a smidge and see what happens.
Nice thinking out of the box You could try changing the cap to .047uF over a .022uF or generally experiment with the tone electronics. that should shave the edge off per what you wanted.
Separate names with a comma.